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La Bonne Franquette

With its motto “Love, Eat, Drink, and Sing,” this Montmartre institution truly embodies the French art of living. Its popularity among the artistic bohemian crowd in the 19th century made it legendary, and today, this historic spot (which is at once an inn, restaurant, bistro, wine bar, and cabaret) is an absolute must-visit when strolling up the Butte.

Immortalized by Van Gogh

 
Presumably named in 1925 by Francisque Poulbot, the painter and Butte Montmartre benefactor to whom we owe the famous "petits Poulbots", the restaurant was already an artists' haunt in the 19th century.
 
Pissarro, Sisley, Cézanne, Toulouse-Lautrec and Renoir (who lived nearby) as well as Monet and the 2 major artistic figures of this Parisian neighborhood, Suzanne Valadon and her son Maurice Utrillo, had their habits in this house dating back... to the 16th century!
 
Between two modest meals and a glass of absinthe, they came here to meet their color merchant, Père Tanguy, whom the most famous Dutch painter portrayed in 1887.
At the time, Vincent Van Gogh was staying with his brother Théo, and from nearby 54 rue Lepic, he would come to enjoy the village atmosphere of this address, which inspired a painting, "La Guinguette", exhibited at the Orsay Museum.

Located at the top of the Butte, La Bonne Franquette now attracts tourists who stop by after exploring the nearby Place du Tertre, as well as, thanks to its enduring tradition of fine French dining and drinking, many French people who enjoy savoring (at an affordable price) traditional dishes made with certified local ingredients. 

From the kitchens of this restaurant, formerly known as “Aux Billards en Bois”, comes a timeless specialty: beef stew with carrots and honey.

A state of mind

A simple, relaxed meal, sometimes improvised but always convivial: that's what the expression "à la bonne franquette" means, dating back to the 17th century. At the time, it was a way of distinguishing between meals eaten at court, which were highly formalized with its own set of rules of decorum and rituals to be respected, and those eaten by the common people, who were not so constrained.

In the language of the time, a distinction was made between eating "à la française" (of which the Unesco-listed Repas gastronomique des Français is the direct heritage) and sharing a meal in a more informal manner, "à la franquette". The suffix "ette", surely of Normandy-Picardy origin, implied the idea of eating "frankly, quite simply".

An expression with performative virtues, the fact of hearing it in the mouth of a host had the immediate power to put the host in the mood. To find out more about La bonne franquette de Montmartre, click here.

To learn more about this Montmartre institution, which hosted Charles Aznavour in the 1950s and has been run by the same family since 1971, click here.


Valérie from Comme des Français
 

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While you're in Montmartre, take the opportunity to discover