Creator of genius, Balenciaga has always shown great sensitivity. Shattering the codes of fashion, he imposed his style to the point of revolutionizing the feminine wardrobe. On the occasion of the exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle, I walked among the sculptures and creations of the couturier. Discover his life, his works and his influence still present in the haute couture.
Born in 1895 in Getaria (Spain), Cristobal Balenciaga is introduced at an early age to the world of haute couture. His mother being a seamstress, he quickly plunges into the field and discovers a real passion. At 12 years old he already works as a young apprentice for a tailor. Later on, he became a buyer in Madrid and bought clothing from among others, Elsa Schiaparelli, Madeleine Vionnet and Coco Chanel.
He often undoes and reassembles these creations to understand how they are structured and even goes so far as to include his own personal touch. Self-taught, he opened his first fashion house in San Sebastian when he was just 23 years old. He becomes very successful, to the point of counting among his loyal clients the Spanish royal family. Convinced of his talent, successively he opens 2 fashion houses in Madrid and Barcelona. The Spanish Civil War of 1935 forced him to flee Spain. He moved to Paris where he soon opened a new fashion house at 10 Avenue George-V. In 1937, he presented his 1st collection with unrivalled success!
Unlike his peers, the couturier doesn't just draw. Needle in hand, he is one of the few to also confection his creations.He is fascinated by the colour black and its profoundness, he likes to experiment with fabrics, the cut, the flow of the garment in order to enhance the silhouette. For him, black is fascinating and unlimited in terms of a creative support. Unlimited in materials: matt, shiny; the ability to play with the volumes, the cut, the geometry of shapes. He created new techniques enabling to gain in volume using less fabric.
First, there is the fabric, and then only comes the couturier
Balenciaga has no limits, to women's delight! He digs into the past to create loose, rounded garments embellished with lace or embroidery. His line is totally opposite to that of Christian Dior's fitted and full-bodied creations.
He put his body and soul into his work. In the 50's, he spent his time perfecting his creations, and created for each runway collection, a veritable mastepiece. Balloon skirts, melon sleeves, the press approves and praises every new idea.
From his contribution to the fashion industry, Balenciaga was given the title of Knight of the Legion of Honour in 1958. The same year he creates the baby doll dress, so often imitated.
After 30 years of service in Paris, Balenciaga no longer finds his place among the new codes advocated by French society ( the mini-skirt, ready-to-wear,...). He presents, to the great disappoinment of the fashion world, his last collection. He moves back to Spain, after creating the uniforms for the flight attendants for Air France and the wedding dress of the Duchess of Cadix.
He died of a heart attack in 1972 , leaving behind his creations that will remain in history. Josephus Thimister revives the Balenciaga house, dormant since 1987. He released a ready-to-wear line in 1991. Nicolas Ghesquière takes over the reins until 2012 and after 15 years of service, his talent brought a new and futuristic eye to the house. He launches a line of bags including the hit bag "Classic", a collection for men and shoes.
Balenciaga mastered his art like no other creator. He leaves in his wake, a work orchestrated by the hands of a master that resonates to this day on the influences of haute couture.
Aphélie from Comme des Français
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