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French Marine Apparel

From the sailor shirt embraced by the whole family to the pea coat proudly showcased on the runways, or the yellow raincoat pulled out of the closet at the first sign of fall, these garments, originally designed for sailors and fishermen, have made their way into the wardrobes of people across France and have continued to inspire designers ever since Gabrielle Chanel. These timeless fashion pieces are now part of a responsible approach, with manufacturing that is increasingly local and focused on quality and sustainability.

Timeless clothing

A symbol of France around the world, just like the beret or the baguette, the sailor shirt was originally a uniform of the French Navy known as the “striped sweater”. Officially adopted in 1858, it met specific criteria:
  • Made in one piece to allow sailors maximum freedom of movement, and without seams or buttons to prevent them from getting caught in the ropes.
  • Featuring 21 white stripes and 21 indigo blue stripes across the chest, and 15 more stripes (alternating between these two colors) on the sleeves, with each stripe one centimeter wide and spaced two centimeters apart.
Designed to withstand the elements, this sailor sweater served two main purposes: to distinguish French sailors from those of other countries and, above all, to make it easier to spot a sailor who had fallen overboard.

It is also to this rescue mission that we owe the yellow color of the famous Breton raincoat. 
Created in Concarneau in 1966 by Guy Cotten, a native of Finistère, this rain jacket was revolutionary at the time, featuring complete waterproofing, a zipper, a Velcro flap, and the wax used to make it waterproof. Since then, it has won over families everywhere and no longer protects only against the salty wind and torrential rains characteristic of the Breton climate.

Another piece of nautical clothing adopted by the French is the caban, whose origins lie far removed from the maritime world. This coat with a wide collar, slanted hip pockets, and buttons adorned with an anchor is in fact derived from the “qaba” worn by desert Bedouins. When this type of thick cape appeared on the backs of Barbary pirates from the Maghreb, the Royal Navy took inspiration from it, and the French Navy followed suit, introducing the practical double-breasted crossover design that allowed the caban to be fastened according to the direction of the wind.

The sea as inspiration, the land as a resource

In 2009, the National Maritime Museum traced, in its exhibition “Sailors set the trend” how these garments inspired numerous French fashion designers, from Jeanne Lanvin to Christian Dior, including Jean-Paul Gaultier and Yves Saint Laurent. And in 2012, Arnaud Montebourg helped make the sailor shirt a symbol of “Made in France” by proudly wearing it on a landmark cover of Le Parisien Magazine.

The former Minister of the Economy would surely be delighted to see that, today, the production of these icons of French fashion is increasingly part of a local and eco-friendly approach. In contrast to fast fashion, several brands are prioritizing production using natural materials (organic cotton, linen, wool, cashmere) in small-scale, locally rooted garment workshops. 
As can be seen on the website breizhocean.com, these French brands are responding to growing consumer demand for durable, authentic clothing that stands the test of time without going out of style.

This sustainable ready-to-wear also has the advantage of being passed down through generations: within families, it’s not uncommon for a sailor sweater or a Breton raincoat to become cherished pieces that are treasured and passed down from father to son or from mother to daughter.


A blend of tradition, fashion, and craftsmanship: it’s surely because the nautical wardrobe embodies the essence of the French art of living that it continues to inspire and reinvent itself. By the way, tell us, do you own one of these iconic “Made in France” pieces?

Valérie from Comme des Français


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