Is fashion simply a trend-setting industry? Historically, it has been a cultural expression in its own right, always reflecting an era and its values. Here's a look back at some of the innovative ideas that, in France, have challenged certain social conventions and, not without a bit of a ruckus, changed people's minds.
While the way we dress is a matter of personal expression, when influential designers propose new cuts of clothing, they are more broadly asserting a political or social vision.
Such was the case with Yves Saint Laurent's 1966 tuxedo for women. Although he had already broken new ground 6 years earlier with a pantsuit that offered an elegant alternative to traditional dresses and skirts, it was this complete outfit that truly transgressed gender conventions.
Another symbol of feminine emancipation, conceived 40 years earlier by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel: the little black dress. A simplified garment, with a straight cut completely free of the corset and, most shocking of all at the time, a length that revealed women's ankles. The choice of this color, historically associated with widowhood and domestic servants, was also controversial, but that didn't stop this fashion item from becoming a staple of French and international wardrobes, just like another item popularized by Coco Chanel, the marinière, inspired by modest sailors.
Another scandal in fashion history was Jean Paul Gaultier's 1984 men's skirt. With this garment, which hijacked the traditional Scottish tartan and placed it in a resolutely modern, urban context, the avant-garde designer challenged gender stereotypes more generally.
A play on perceptions of masculinity and femininity that shocked many conservatives but helped make fashion more inclusive and diverse.
A fine tribute to Mary Quant, the British designer who in 1960 dared to wear... the miniskirt! Deemed indecent and provocative at the time, the piece remains emblematic of women's struggle to freely control their appearance.
So, fashion's not all that frivolous, is it?
Valérie from Comme des Français
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Crédit photo : ©Galerie Dior / ©Helmut Newton
