Considered as an indispensable business by the French, bakeries have been at the heart of their culinary habits for centuries. From the unavoidable baguette to the mouth-watering pastries and the appetizing viennoiseries, there is no shortage of daily opportunities to visit these emblems of French gastronomy around the world.
Like Restaurant, the word Boulangerie comes from the action performed on the spot: "bolengarius" (making round breads) in the Middle Ages. Of Picardy origin, the Latin term was gradually imposed and transformed, during the Renaissance, into "boulangerie".
The Rohmer bakery in Alsace, which has been run by the same family for 15 generations, can still be seen from that time. Opened in 1602, this institution in the town of Rosheim is in fact the oldest bakery in France, even if it has since moved from the red-light district (near the Church of Saint-Etienne) to its current address near the Town Hall. The manager Guillaume Rohmer, while perpetuating the family tradition, has made it evolve, his establishment being today also a tea room.
Another address competing for the title of oldest bakery in France, the Fournil de Marcel Kientz (also in Alsace) in which 10 generations of bakers have succeeded each other since 1752. Certainly, at that time the competition was less tough than today where no less than 35 000 bakeries attract, daily, 12 million French people!
In Paris, there are also several legendary addresses such as the Stohrer bakery which is even classified as a historical monument. Installed since 1730 in the rue Montorgueil, it was founded by Nicolas Stohrer (King Louis XV's pastry chef) to whom we owe the invention of Baba au rhum.
With its sumptuous decor, the oldest pastry shop in the capital is a real institution where one also comes to taste old-fashioned religieuses or tasty bouchées à la reine.
To stay in the spirit of the monarchy, one can easily take oneself for Marie Antoinette by entering the Petit Versailles in the Marais where painted ceilings, moldings, chandeliers and gilding dazzle Parisians since 1860.
Also classified as a historical heritage site, this bakery located in the heart of the tourist Marais is run by Christian Vabret, Best Worker in France 1986, and offers special breads, pastries, ice creams and sorbets to take away or on its small terrace.
It is impossible to conclude this tour of the historic bakeries of Paris without mentioning the Moulin de la Vierge, whose gourmet know-how has been practiced since the 14th century. Its frontage, dated 1356, is particularly impressive, as is its interior decoration in the Art Nouveau style (late 19th century) with its large mirrors and landscapes painted on ceramic.
No wonder the inhabitants of the very chic 7th arrondissement call it "the pearl of the neighborhood".
Has this selection of historic bakeries awakened your vocation to become a creator of sweet treats yourself? You can get started by taking a pastry-making course at Alain Ducasse in Paris. Thanks to the teachings of a starred figure in French gastronomy, you'll be able to concoct desserts like a chef!
Valerie from Comme des Français
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