Seen from the TGV station of Aix-en-Provence it is impressive: the immense rock of Sainte-Victoire, the mountain "of" Paul Cézanne, emerges from a pine forest. In front, the beautiful city of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region is not far away with its roofs and belfry.
Cézanne was born in Aix, lived and died there. How to "meet" Cézanne? It's simple: there is the Bastide of Jas de Bouffan or the hills of Lauves’s worshop. But the best is the quarries of Bibemus. The painter had his shed there and, in a lassis of ochre or orange blocks, painted there paintings such as "the red rock" (which is worth millions today).
Cézanne reveals himself here, his interest in volumes, his inspiration towards cubism. Especially since this former construction site offers an exceptional view of the twisted forms of Saint-Victoire.
Via the "Route Cézanne", the hamlet of Tholonet is the best stop in the middle of a sublime Provence, made of an almost scarlet earth. La Plantation is the landmark of summer evenings, "Chez Thomé" say the regulars, for this local institution.
You should not miss Vauvenargues (on the D10) and refresh yourself at the village cafeteria with a glance at the castle on the mountainside.
Because Pablo Picasso is buried in the garden. A surprise, not many people know where the maestro rests: Paris, Mougins...? Picasso thus paid homage to Cézanne for his research and his openness to modernity.
It is precisely here that we should remember this telephone exchange:
"I bought Cézanne's Sainte-Victoire", Picasso exclaimed; his interlocutor asked him: "Which one?". The original" replied the master !
To prepare your visit in the footsteps of Cézanne.
Jean Marc for Comme des Français
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Continue your journey through art history with these articles:
- The magnificent Matisse Museum in the North
- Impressionist pilgrimage in Ile de France
- Artists' studios/houses
